Exploring Madeira, Portugal’s “Island of Eternal Spring”

If you are someone who loves food and wine, is outdoorsy, and likes exploring places without hordes of people crowded around you, then the autonomous Portuguese island of Madeira off the coast of Africa could be your next perfect getaway. I loved my visit there in September of this year! It has it all: art, gorgeous coasts, adventure, hiking, amazing food, wine, culture… everything you could hope for in a destination and without the crowds. Madeira is called the “Island of Eternal Spring” for good reason – it has lovely weather year-round, making it an ideal spot for Europeans looking to escape dreary winter weather. Americans, however, aren’t widely aware of the beauty of the island (or, I should say, islands – plural – as there are four that make up the archipelago of Madeira, but only two are inhabited.) But good news for us in the U.S.: United Airlines recently launched a brand-new direct flight from Newark to Madeira, and the Madeiran government is thrilled. Unlike other extremely over-touristed places in Europe, Madeirans are excited to welcome American tourists to the island. We really felt the joy and warm welcome when we arrived – our group of travel industry professionals were even given a reception at the president’s manor, Quinta Vigia – a high honor! 

On our first day, we did a city tour of Funchal, the capital of Madeira. We saw a fantastic variety of sites, including the Mercado Dos Lavradores. This popular market was a nice mix of stands showcasing fruits, fish, spices, and souvenirs. It was here we spotted a scary-looking fish that is a delicacy of high esteem and great renown in Madeira. Called the black scabbardfish, this deep-sea delicacy can be found on many of the high-end restaurant menus around the island. It is traditionally prepared with bananas and passion fruit, definitely somethign for culinary enthusiasts to seek out when visiting Madeira. 

“Unlike other extremely over-touristed places in Europe, Madeirans are excited to welcome American tourists to the island. We really felt the joy and warm welcome when we arrived”

Our city tour also took us down the beautiful Santa Maria Street to shop and experience the local culture. We learned the street was a subject of a revitalization project and artists were invited to paint and decorate the doors and shopfronts lining the entire street. It is full of great shops, art galleries, and stores, perfect for meandering and finding treasures to take back home.  

For those looking to get a better view of the city, our guide pointed out the Funchal Cable Car during our tour. There are actually several cable cars around the island, including one in the city of Monte. Due to time constraints I wasn’t able to ride any of the cable cars myself, but if you get to do it, here is another tip for my thrill seekers: take the Monte cable car up to the peak, then jump in a “Monte Sledge” for a speedy ride back down the mountain. Not for the faint hearted, these wicker sledges – toboggan-like in construction – are attended by men who run down the road on either side of you while you sit in the basket, using their feet as brakes. A friend of mine who actually did the ride can confirm: they move FAST! 

The next day we did a Jeep tour around Madeira. It was a great way to see many parts of the island, all very different from each other. Agriculture is a big industry in Madeira and the land is very terraced and hilly (no surprise there are plenty of beautiful hikes around the island as a result!) It was very interesting to see the topography change as we made our way higher and higher in elevation. We went from lush regions growing bananas and sugar cane to higher up regions where the wineries and vineyards are located. There are even pockets of land that are quite dry and desert-like. The variety was fascinating and beautiful.  

As we toured around the winding roads, were enjoyed gorgeous coastal views everywhere we went. Most of the beaches are pebbly and rocky, but there are a handful of black sand beaches to visit. Our local guide also ended up taking us to a small fishing village where he was from. It was especially nice to go into a very un-touristy village with a local who shared their childhood stories of growing up there with us.  

“Agriculture is a big industry in Madeira…we went from lush regions growing bananas and sugar cane to higher up regions where the wineries and vineyards are located.”

Along our drive we spotted several sparkling waterfalls which can be found all over the island. There are also lots and lots of hiking trails, many following the historic irrigation channels called lavadas. Our tour also included a visit to the Fanal Forest. This forest has also been designated as a UNESCO site for the special type of laurel tree found there. It is known for a dense fog that rolls in and obscures the trees. Amazingly, on the day of our visit we had bright blue skies with zero fog. It was also in this forest that my friend and I took a hike up a hill and came across the happiest cow sitting alone on the top of the hill, enjoying the sunshine. We couldn’t blame it – the natural beauty found all over the island is really quite spectacular, I could spend all day up there as well! 

Another lovely stop was to see the natural volcanic swimming holes found throughout the island. One of the more popular ones is the Natural Pool of Porto Moniz. Entry is a few euro, totally worth it for the easy access and diving boards leading straight into the ocean. Many of the hotels on the island have their own swimming pool entries, but there are other non-commercial natural pools to explore. Generally these are a little more difficult to access as they likely do not have ladders or paths into the water. 

“the natural beauty found all over the island is really quite spectacular”

On our last day on the island we took Zodiacs out to go spot Pilot Whales on a whale watching excursion with Madeira Sea Emotions. We even circled the island’s dramatic eastern tip before I jumped in for a quick, oh-so-refreshing swim. At one point the guides cracked a joke with us that they not only took us to go whale watching, but to go out on safari as well! They then pointed to a large rock formation that, sure enough, looked just like an elephant. Close enough!  

For my food fanatics, I can safely say Madeira knocked my socks off when it came to food and wine offerings. First of all, there are Michelin-starred and Michelin-recommended restaurants for some of the best meals you will ever have. Three highlights include Oxalis at Casa Velha do Palheiro, Villa Cipriani at Reid’s Palace, and Restaurante Desarma on the rooftop of Hotel The Views Baía in Funchal. On the wine side, of course Madeira wine is a huge deal. We learned Madeira actually has connection to United States history and was served at the signing on the Declaration of Independence! At Quinta do Barbusano winery, our group enjoyed beef skewers grilled over laurel wood and presented in the most unique hanging method – it was classic Madeiran comfort food with vineyard and mountain views.  

I also need to mention the traditional cake and cookie of the region, called bolo del Mel (cake version) and broas de mel (cookie version). Traditionally these are sugarcane and honey cakes made with walnuts or almonds. The cakes are dark and very dense, almost like holiday season fruitcakes, and absolutely delicious. When we stayed at Savoy Palace, the cookies were available in a cookie jar in the lobby. When we attended the president’s luncheon and I mentioned we had a delicous gingersnap-like cookie at the hotel, the president immediately knew what I was talking about. 2 minutes later his staff put a bag of the cookies in front of me! They seriously were delicious and I brought several bags home to give to my friends and family. 

In addition to the broas de mel cookies, another iconic Madeiran treat is a local drink called Poncha. At one of our stops, our guides learned we still had yet to try the drink. They were aghast and quickly halted everything to make sure we tried it ASAP. The traditional Madeiran drink is made up of a sugar cane-based spirit, honey, sugar, and lemon juice. It is all mixed together with a special type of muddler crafted on Madeira specifically for the drink and let me tell you – it is SO good. There were plenty more hyper-local snacks and drinks to try, all of which were delicious and conveyed a true sense of place. 

I cannot recommend Madeira enough. It has everything you could ever want or need and is perfect for so many types of travelers: families, honeymooners, foodies, adventure-seekers…everyone! It even would be a great location for remote workers looking to shake up their view for a bit as the connection was great around the island during our whole trip. I also visited many gorgeous hotels and resorts during my time, but the one that blew me away was Savoy Palace. The staff was incredibly friendly, the pools were stunning, and there were fresh flowers everywhere we turned. I really cannot say enough great things about Savoy. 

“I cannot recommend Madeira enough. It has everything you could ever want or need and is perfect for so many types of travelers: families, honeymooners, foodies, adventure-seekers…everyone!”

There truly is something for everyone in Madeira and I am excited to return home with a first-hand understanding of its beauty. If Madeira has always been in your periphery as a place to visit, it’s time to pull it to the forefront. I like to say it has all the best parts of Europe all in one place: it is a little like Cinque Terre with the fishing culture and beautiful water; it has top-notch hiking and adventure activities like canyoneering and spelunking for serious outdoor fanatics; the food is amazing, the swimming in the volcanic pools very unique…and if you can believe it, there is so much more I did not cover in this travel blog! 

Let’s start planning your trip to the island so you can experience this hidden gem for yourself and fall in love with it as much as I have! I have so much more to share from my trip – give me a call or drop me a note to hear more about what Madeira can offer you and your travel dreams.