Tired of the Crowds, Looking for Adventure? Go Greenland

Jul 12, 2025 Avatar Hilton Smith Hilton Smith

I fulfilled a 30 year dream this July with my big Greenland adventure. It is unlike any vacation I have ever had. It exceeded my expectations but it is not for everyone.

This isolated island nation has been visited by millions, most all of them at 35,000 feet on the way to Europe or back. A glance or two out an aircraft window is about all of them had as a connection. I have wanted more and United Airlines gave me the chance. This is the first summer season of non-stop service twice a week from Newark. I booked the tickets the first day the were available.

This land which is tied to Denmark has a rich Inuit based culture, its own language and customs. The connection of the approximately 55,000 population to the land and sea is strong. This is a huge island but with very limited roads and resources. Most of it is above the Arctic Circle and with virtually no trees.

What it does have is an emerging tourism trade which the new airport in capital Nuuk has facilitated. What I found was a population enjoying this new vanguard of tourists but wanting to preserve what is so unique to their beautiful island.

Adventure travel is their resource which is huge now. Massive glaciers, ice fields, whale watching and extensive trails with few or no crowds is why you go there. Forget Iceland which is now crowded and very volcanic. Greenland had neither. Forget Alaska where to go whale watching it’s a massive fleet of cruise ships delivering tourists to a fleet on smaller but significant vessels to compete for the whales. In Greenland, a boat with 16 passengers is full.

I split my time between Nuuk and the smaller but picturesque town of Ilulissat about 215 miles north. This town is critical in making sure you see the heart and soul of geographic Greenland. For the first time in my life, I was able to ask and get an ice berg view room.

I stayed at the very comfortable Hvide Fauk Hotel, the oldest in town with about 100 rooms. It location in town, by the bay and next door to one of the big excursion outfits was perfect. The Hotel Arctic is considered better but it is about a mile from town. At my hotel, it would be the start for all those amazing excursions to the ice and sea.

In Nuuk, before and after Ilulissat, I stayed at the very central Hans Egede Hotel. There were chances to see the historic town center and a few excursions as well. You must go north to get the real experience.

Keep in mind this is off the beaten track for sure. Lots of fish and surprisingly good musk ox, but fewer fresh vegetables. Service here is friendly but spotty. They might forget to make up your room one day. Our hotel in Nuuk ran out of both their house red and white wines. Weather changes quickly and fog and wind delayed several of my air departures. This is not for those who want to visit a high end spa and view the outside from a window. It was around 40 degrees each day so you have to bubble up.

What Greenland will do for the experienced traveler is open up a less traveled and more authentic slice of the planet. These proud people as so in tune with nature. Summer visitors have the advantage of the midnight sun, never setting for me in Ilulissat in the 5 days I was there. I am thinking of the reverse with weeks of darkness and cold coming in just a few months.

There is real character of these proud people. They have the reverence for the land and sea that sustains them and a real desire to share it with others. They are building further new airports and more hotels. Few tourists will ever get tired of seeing Paris or Rome. Nevertheless serious travelers need to spread their wings and explore. Let Greenland be the key to unlock a path less traveled with special fulfillment and joy.

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